If you’re coming from Johannesburg, the road to Tzaneen takes you past the outskirts of Polokwane, Limpopo’s capital, and then east. Surprisingly, it’s a proper dual carriageway with a wide median down the middle — not something I’ve seen very often around here – probably because I avoid toll roads because I they show how government shifts its responsibility of providing arterial infrastructure onto taxpayers and tourists!
(You can also fly to Polokwane International Airport on scheduled flights, but I’m not sure where the “International” bit comes from. First Car Rental has a branch there so rent a car from them. They offer great cars, great value, great service and they’re really very friendly.)
Polokwane to Tzaneen takes about an hour and, if one continues another hour along Route 71, you come to Phalaborwa and the Kruger National Park. (Yes, most of the Park actually lies in Limpopo.)
Leaving Polokwane, you come across “village” after “village”, all within the greater Polokwane metropolitan area. It’s scary… Polokwane’s urban sprawl goes on for kilometre after kilometre. If Polokwane municipality aims to provide uniform service delivery and services throughout its area, it will bankrupt itself or its citizens with this kind of land usage.
It’s an interesting drive though and could be a fascinating tourist route. On the way back, I want to photograph some of the eye-catching shops along the road. Maybe I’ll meet some interesting people too.
The road takes you past Zion City at Moria which makes the news every year — over five million people travel there at Easter, in early September and over Christmas for religious celebrations.
The Zion City Church was formed by Engenas Lekganyane after a revelation he is said to have received from God in 1910. Followers believe that the church’s leader (today it’s Lekganyane’s grandsons) stand between the congregation and God; and that, like Christ, can perform miracles. Hmmm… yes.
The dual carriageway ends at Moria. Could it have been built just for those three annual events? Limpopo Tourism say the province’s tourism benefits greatly but I’m not so sure. Pilgrims arrive by any means of transport available and the visit is singularly focused. Apart from fuel and food, and the requirements for staging massive events, few tourism rands get spread around. If anything, all other tourists are discouraged from visiting the province at those times. Limpopo Traffic advised CapeInfo not to travel at these times.
But that’s also where the road starts taking you into the mountains. The scenery changes so dramatically you could be in a different world.
Moving from Polokwane to Mopani municipal districts also had another very noticeable contrast – spotless roads with tidy road verges and strategically placed roadside picnic spots in shade. For the first time in Limpopo, I had the feeling that this municipality really cares. (I was so impressed that I was compelled to pop into the municipal manager and mayor’s offices in Tzaneen to tell them. Well done guys!)
The vegetation is typical bushveld as you climb the winding pass and then — all of a sudden — you’re in forests with vistas of dramatic mountain after dramatic mountain. This is where the Drakensberg escarpment ends!
Descending the first pass you come to the small village of Haenertsburg … in the Land of the Silver Mist””. I’d never heard of it before but watch it become a “must-visit” route destination. Old-timers may resent a new-found tourism status, but they should watch their property values climb!
I drove past it the first time thinking, “pretty, but not worth a detour.” My host in Tzaneen, Adri Kruger of Tzaneen Country Lodge, told me I must visit Martin & Jen at the Iron Crown Pub & Grill. She was right — this is one of those places that defines a town. What friendly owners, what a buzz and I will be back… and so will many others I guess. It also made me venture further into the village.
The road dips into another valley and overlooks the spectacular Ebenezer dam, shimmering blue surrounded by green forests. Then another ascent brings one to Magoebaskloof, named after King Makgoba, leader of the Tlou people who defied the Boer government from 1888–1895. He was eventually killed by Swazi impis employed by the Boers when they failed to take his mountaintop domain.
Approaching Tzaneen, one enters one of the most intensely farmed areas in SA’s northern provinces. Some facts about the greater Tzaneen area are telling:
- It’s known as the fruit basket of South Africa, growing mango, avocado, tomato, banana, tea and the whole basket of citrus.
- The area has been rated one of the wealthiest in South Africa.
- It’s won South Africa’s Cleanest Town of the Year award.
Tzaneen, on the banks of the huge Tzaneen dam, must be the greenest town I’ve ever seen. Only the commercial centre seems to stand above the canopy of trees that covers the town. It’s the second largest town in Limpopo (population 80,000), and serves the greater Tzaneen area which has a population of about 700,000 people. This shows in the CBD which has excellent shopping.
Notes on photographs
I will replace and add to the pics on these pages when I get better ones. If anyone can help with stunning photographs of the area, they are really appreciated and will be credited when used. Getting great pics means being at the right place at the right time which is rather difficult when you’re just passing through. Good lighting is everything in the harsh sunshine.
I did go into the Tzaneen info office to see if they have a photo CD and ask for further information on the area. All I got was generic info on Limpopo! Not helpful at all, nor any warm welcome.
A polarising filter is essential for photography in Limpopo. I haven’t managed to find a 62mm one yet for the Sony A200 DSLR which takes magnificent photographs.
I finally realised why Cape Town is a global centre for film and advertising film shoots — it has unique lighting (and named one of the top five blue sky cities of the world). An architect friend had just completed a building in Cape Town with a dusky pink Marmoran finish. It really looked good so they decided to use it again for a building they were doing in Johannesburg. They put a test panel up on the Joburg building but… what was dusky pink in Cape Town appeared a dirty grey in Johannesburg!